If you’ve ever considered diving then may we suggest one of the fascinating spots on Earth – Scapa Flow in the Orkney Islands. Not only does it have one of the world’s highest concentration of wrecks to dive, but the story behind them will keep you occupied for hours even if your suit springs a leak.
Scuttled
Scapa Flow is one of the world’s great natural harbours. Measuring around 12 miles from East to West and 10 miles from North to South, its sheltered position between the islands of Hoy, Burray, Graemsay, South Ronaldsay and Mainland means that it’s been used for thousands of years for fishing, trade and shelter.
Scapa Flow became the UK’s primary naval base during WW1 and WW2, allowing for easy access to the North Atlantic. To prevent U-boat access submarine nets and blockships were sunk at the entrances.
A Blockship At Rest
At the end of WW1 the German High Seas fleet was interned at Scapa Flow, awaiting a decision on their fate. 74 German ships, from giant battleships to destroyers were escorted there in November 1918.
During the several months of internment the crews were confined to the ships they arrived on. Crew morale turned mutinous. Under the command of Rear Admiral Ludwig Von Reuter, sailors were sent back to Germany until only caretaker crews remained. As negotiations continued, he became concerned that the British intended to seize his ships.
At 11.20 on the 21st of June 1919 Reuter gave a coded order to his fleet. Flood valves were opened, holes in bulkheads bored, portholes loosened. Some sailors were shot dead in an attempt to prevent the scuttling – the last casualties of WW1. By the end of the day 52 German ships were on the bottom of Scapa Flow. The surviving ships were towed to shallower waters to be beached or remained afloat.
Over a period of years the ships were raised for salvage. Even today occasional dives take place to retrieve pieces of steel for use in scientific instruments, satellites and other radiation-sensitive equipment as metal forged after 1945 is irrevocably contaminated with radioactive isotopes from nuclear activity.
Only 7 German ships now lurk underwater along with several other British-sunk blockships and the wrecks of HMS Royal Oak and HMS Vanguard. Royal Oak was sunk by a German U-boat and Vanguard suffered an accidental explosion, they are both classed as war graves and only accessible to Britsh armed forces divers. The German ships are are classed as scheduled ancient monuments and require a permit to dive. Any debris within a 100 metre radius cannot be removed.
A View From The Road
We were lucky enough to try a dive for ourselves last summer. There are alot of dive operators on Orkney. In Stromness harbour on the south of the mainland, half the boats in the harbour are dedicated to diving.
The operators recommend dry suits, even in the summer months. This means squeezing yourself into a giant neoprene romper suit with regular clothing on underneath. www.scapascuba.co.uk can supply all the equipment and a fine person to escort you down for about £70, even if you’re a total beginner. It’s money well spent, one of the most amazing things you can do in Britain.
The wrecks are teeming with aquatic life. Our instructor told us that you can peer through the portholes of the German ships and still see crockery and furniture untouched for 90 years. And when the dive is over head across the to the Isle of Hoy to visit the Scapa Flow naval museum.
No doubt the ships themselves will be dust by the end of the century, so pop along while you can to make your grandchildren green with envy.
